Bowfell, Crinkle Crags, Cold Pike & Pike O’Blisco

GPS Track

Date: 01/06/2013
From: Langdale NT Campsite

Parking: Langdale NT Campsite
Start Point: Langdale NT Campsite
Region: Southern Fells

Route length: 9.9 miles (14.5km)
Time taken: 05:54
Average speed: 1.7mph
Ascent: 1422m
Descent: 1433m

Wainwrights on this walk: Bowfell (902m), Crinkle Crags (859m), Pike O’Blisco (705m), Cold Pike (701m)

Additional summits: Great Knott (696m)

Other points of interest: Whorney Side Force, Hell Gill, Climbers Traverse, Bowfell Buttress, Bad Step, Wrynose Fell

Route: Langdale NT Campsite, Stool End, Oxendale, Whorney Side, Hell Gill, Buscoe, The Band, Flat Crags, Bowfell Buttress, Bowfell, Bowfell Links, Three Tarns, Shelter Crags, Crinkle Crags, Bad Step, Great Knott, Cold Pike, Red Tarn, Pike O’Blisco, Wrynose Fell

Having climbed Bowfell in the past, I jumped at the chance to join a group of like minded friends for a weekend in Langdale tramping around the fantastic skyline of Langdale. As head organiser, Skip had proposed a classic route around the high peaks at the head of the Langdale valley while managing to avoid many of the more well trodden paths like The Band and the path down Browney Gill. Considering the fantastic weather, we did well not to bump into too many other walkers which is a surprise as Langdale probably offers some of the finest walks in the Lake District and this trip was one not to be missed.

Contrary to popular belief, the weather was fine and bright as we set off, with no forecast of any real rain. That’s right. The forecast was for a dry, sunny day. The kind of day that would do justice to this magnificent part of our country.

Pike of Blisco looking splendid in the morning sunshine

Leaving the campsite, we made our way along the road to Stool End Farm before avoiding the start of The Band by heading up Oxendale towards Whorney Side. Oxendale Beck sits between The Band and Pike O’Blisco with Crinkle Crags towering above it at the head of the valley. Several streams (including Crinkle Gill and Buscoe Sike) flow into Oxendale Beck before it meets Mickleden Beck further down the valley.

The classic Crinkle Crags as viewed from Oxendale

Continuing up Oxendale, a brief climb up alongside Buscoe Sike leads you to Whorneyside Force, a secluded waterfall with a lovely deep plunge pool that allowed us to have a quick break and scamper around the steep sides.

Buscoe Sike and one of its many smaller waterfalls

The tumbling water at Whorneyside Force

After leaving the falls behind, we made a steep climb back out of the valley to re-join the main path as it heads further up the flanks of Buscoe Sike towards Hell Gill. Hell Gill is a striking gorge, carved into the side of the hill by the force of the water. Iain, being the adventurous type, opted the scramble straight up the ravine whereas the rest of us, being a bit more cautious looked on, meeting him at the top. You can see his pictures here.

Iain negotiates the scramble up Hell Gill

Looking down Langdale from the path above The Band

After reaching the top of Hell Gill, we detoured again to cut across the hillside to meet the popular path up The Band. This was in aid of reaching the Climbers Traverse, my absolute favourite part of this walk. It’s said that only 1 out of every 100 walkers who climb Bowfell traverse the climbers route which is a real shame as it is great fun. It does however, keep it reasonably quiet. The traverse is perched on the flanks of the northeastern face of Bowfell and is probably the easiest route to Bowfell Buttress, a popular climbing face. I’ll let the pictures below tell the rest of the story.

Starting out along the traverse with Langdale in the background

Bowfell Buttress can be seen in the background

The gang round one of the trickier parts of the path though it offers no real difficulty to most walkers

Bowfell Buttress stands proud at the end of the traverse

Having crossed the traverse our group split up at go separate ways to the summit of Bowfell. Some climbed the boulder fall next to the Great Slab while Skip, Iain and myself continued across to the foot of the Buttress to see what was what.

Looking up Bowfell Buttress

Bowfells famous Great Slab as seen from the Buttress

As I’d climbed the boulder fall before (to the right of the Great Slab in the picture above), we decided to climb up the scree directly next to the Buttress. This was a tough little climb, partly due to the looseness of the stones and partly due to the rising temperatures as we crept into the afternoon.

Looking down the scree into Mickleden

Reaching the top of the scramble, the brisk breeze was a welcome antidote to the exertion of the climb. All that remained was a quick scamper up to the summit of Bowfell. At 902m, Bowfell is the sixth highest peak in the Lakes and very popular with walkers. We were quite lucky that we were among only a handful of others on the summit at the time we arrived and we had it to ourselves once the few people who were there went their separate ways. The views from Bowfell are special as you can see every major group of fells topped off by an inspirational view of the Scafell range.

The Scafells from the summit of Bowfell

The summit of Bowfell with Crinkle Crags in the distance

After meeting up with the rest of our group, we started our descent from the summit, heading down towards Three Tarns and Crinkle Crags, not before having a nose down Bowfell Links, the distinct vertical scars you can see in the picture below. After a brief lunch stop, we started the rollercoaster ride over Crinkle Crags, one of Wainwright’s particular favourites. It is from here that you get the iconic view of Bowfell, sat next the Scafell range. It really is an awesome sight.

Scafell, Scafell Pike, Broad Crag and Bowfell

We all made our own, slighty different ways over the five Crinkles, such is the nature of them, but we were sure to stop off at Long Top, the highest of the five mini peaks at 859m. Before long we reached the infamous Bad Step, a 10ft declivity that is described by Wainwright as the most difficult obstacle on any of the regular walkers routes. It’s fair to say that I made a bit of a meal climbing down the Bad Step last year, however this year, the short scramble down the face suddenly seemed very obvious so, down I went. Skip and Smokey managed to find the way around with the dog, as described in Wainwrights guide, before Skip, Smokey and I made sure we were Bad Step experts by climbing it, descending it, climbing it again before going around it and continuing on. Never again will I be caught out by it.

Crinkle Crags and Bowfell

Iain snaps away as Craig makes the Bad Step look easy

After the excitement of the Crinkles and Bad Step, we opted for another quick break before crossing the flat, open hillside towards Pike O’Blisco. While the group headed down the path, Skip and I nipped over to Great Knott before crossing the path and climbing Cold Pike to help me add another Wainwright to the list. Reaching Red Tarn, the majority of our gang opted to head back to the campsite down the path next to Browney Gill while Skip, Smokey, myself and the dog (begrudgingly) started the steady climb up to the summit of Pike O’Blisco. I’d never been up Blisco and I was in for a real treat as it has a fantastic summit, crowned by a dual peak that is separated by a sheltering gully. The views from the summit are amazing as well as the picture below shows.

Langdale panorama from the summit of Pike O’Blisco

The twin peaks of Pike O’Blisco

All that remained was a steep descent down the well laid path across Wrynose Fell, into the valley of Redacre Gill. By now I was starting to fell the exertion in the legs but before long we reached the road and made it back to the campsite.

Smokey and Ella contemplate the steep descent

All in all this was a tiring but extremely enjoyable walk and contains some of the great moments a walker can experience when climbing the Lakeland fells. I’d recommend this route to anyone wanting to experience the Lake District and would urge those of you considering visiting Langdale to make plans visit soon. It seems that it will take something very special indeed to knock Bowfell and Langdale from the very top of my list of favourites.

The Langdale Pikes

GPS Track

Date: 22/09/2012
From: Langdale NT Campsite

Parking: Langdale NT Campsite
Start Point: Langdale NT Campsite
Region: Central Fells

Route length: 6.1 miles (9.8km)
Time taken: 3:35
Average speed: 1.7mph
Ascent: 693m
Descent: 693m

Wainwrights on this walk: Pavey Ark (700m), Harrison Stickle (736m), Pike of Stickle (709m), Loft Crag (680m)

Additional summits: None

Other points of interest: Stickle Tarn, Dungeon Ghyll Force, Thorn Crag

Route: Langdale NT Campsite, New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Kirk Howe, New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Stickle Ghyll, Stickle Tarn, Pavey Ark, Harrison Stickle, Pike of Stickle, Loft Crag, Mark Gate, New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel

The Langdale Pikes. A phenomenal sight to anyone entering Great Langdale via the road from Chapel Stile. Despite their diminutive size, they seem to tower over the valley and have a distinct alpine feel about them. A firm favourite with many people who visit the Lakes they offer the excitement and spectacle that is associated with many of the higher peaks. A route that Sara and I had to tick off the list, and quick.

Using a free weekend in September, we chose to camp at the National Trust site that is ideally located near the head of the Langdale valley. While expensive, it is very well managed and has all the facilities you could need as a rather hap-hazard camper. Being the end of September, the weather could have been anything from pleasant warm sunshine to driving rain, so we packed accordingly. We had anticipated it to be rather cold thanks to the previous night’s chill. Fortunately for us, as we made our way along the path to the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel, the weather had presented us with an almost Spring-like day that made our layering up seem a bit daft.

Sara strides on into a fabulous autumn day

The rolling lower flanks of the pikes with Swine Knott, Scout Crag and Whitegill crag peeking over the top

Sara crosses a small footbridge near to Rossett

Finding our way through the wood that leads to Sticklebarn and the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel, we started the climb up the so called ‘tourist path’ alongside Stickle Ghyll. Being new to the area we thought it wise to stick to the well trodden routes to keep ourselves out of trouble. The path up is fairly steep in place and mainly consists of a wide, well laid set of stone steps. It was however, very busy. To avoid the crowds in the future, I would suggest remaining to the left of the stream for the duration of the climb, away from the main path.

Sara, sans outer layer now, starts the climb up alongside Stickle Ghyll

Sara leads the crowds up the path…..

….before promptly leaving them behind after deploying ‘the poles’

Crossing the ghyll and climbing to the top of the path leads you onto the dam at the mouth of Stickle Tarn and a stunning view of Pavey Ark and Harrison Stickle that dominate the scene. The dam was built in 1838 to provide water to Langdale, increasoing the size of a natural water-filled corrie.

Sara after successfully crossing Stickle Ghyll. No wet feet this time

Harrison Stickle and Pavey Ark standing proud over Stickle Tarn

After a brief rest to cathc our breath and admire the scenery, we followed the path to the north east, circling the tarn and crossing some nice boggy ground towards the foot of pavey Ark. From here we could see a clear view of ‘Jake’s Rake’, a challenging scramble on the face of Pavey Ark. We considered it but decided against it this time. I’d like to do it with someone who has already climbed it and when I’m a bit more experienced. To avoid a long walk around the back of Pavey Ark, we took a left shortly after Jake’s Rake to climb a very steep path directly to the summit.

Pavey Ark

Jake’s Rake can be clearly seen running diagonally up the face

Our route took us up a steep path onto the summit

Pavey Ark has the largest cliff face in Langdale at 400ft, but is largely hidden from the valley floor thanks to its location at the back of Stickle Tarn. Views from the summit are excellent, particularly into Langdale and towards Windermere. Standing high above Stickle Tarn gives an incredible ‘top of the world’ feeling.

Admiring the scenery high above Langdale

The summit of Pavey Ark

Harrison Stickle from Pavey Ark

From Pavey Ark, we made the short crossing and 40m climb up to Harrison Stickle which, at 736m, would be the high point of the day. The views from Harrison are on a par with Pavey Ark, again, the sensation of being on top of everything is amplified by the steep crags that fall away beneath your feet. For those of you who didn’t know, the word ‘stickle’ is a name give to a hill with a prominent rocky top.

Panorama from the summit of Harrison Stickle. How many peaks can you spot?

The view down Langdale all the way to Windermere

Sara adds a sense of drama to the occasion

The next target would be Pike of Stickle, a funny looking rocky dome perched on the edge of the hillside in the distance. Crossing from Harrison Stickle to Pike of Stickle is fairly straight forward by following the obvious path west that leads directly towards it. There is a brief scramble off Harrison Stickle but nothing to worry about. Pike of Stickle is ascended by simple scrambling your way to the summit. There are excellent views of Bowfell and Mickleden from Pike of Stickle thanks to it’s exposed location. There is a famous neolithic axe ‘factory’ situated on the scree slope below Pike of Stickle, one of the most important sites of it’s kind in Europe. A small cave marks it’s entrance.

Pike of Stickle is the obvious mound in the distance

Bowfell and Mickleden

A break on the summit of Pike of Stickle to admire the scenery of Harrison Combe

The final peak of the day would take us back towards Harrison Stickle across Harrison Combe before bearing right towards Loft Crag, the peak immediately in front of Harrison. Thanks to it’s location, slightly pushed into the valley, the views of Langdale are probably the most extensive from Loft Crag.

Loft Crag bathed in the early evening light

Bowfell and Pike of Stickle from Loft Crag

Sara at the summit

From Loft Crag, all that remains to to start the descent back towards the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. Again, thanks to the popularity of the area, the path is wide and easy to follow as it snakes down from Loft Crag to Mark Gate and Dungeon Ghyll Force. Described in Wordsworth’s ‘The Idle Shepherd Boys’, Dungeon Ghyll Force is a stunning 40ft waterfall in a deep ravine that cuts into the side of Harrison Stickle. The best parts are viewed by entering the foot of the ravine and following the stream uphill and is something I’d like to do in the future.

Loft Crag, Thorn Crag and Harrison Stickle

Dungeon Ghyll and Dungeon Ghyll Force

From Dungeon Ghyll Force, a further descent and a quick crossing of the stream leads you to Sticklebarn, a National Trust owned pub that is a particular favourite of mine. Being later in the day we thought it would be rude not to stop for a drink and some food. I’ve always wondered if pub food during a walk always tastes great because it generally is good or your’re that tired that anything tastes good. Sounds like a good Phd thesis to me.

Dungeon Ghyll at the foot of the Langdale Pikes with Side Pike and Pike O’Blisco in the distance

The result of a very enjoyable days walking

The Langdale Pikes are very special indeed and are popular for a very good reason. The offer some excellent, exciting walking and climbing and views to match. I think it’s probably a walk thats well suited to people who are looking for the charms of the Lake District without reaching the serious heights of the high fells. For the more adventurous, Jake’s Rake and Easy Gully on Pavey Ark offer exciting, exposed climbs to the summit.

This is definitely a place to visit again.